Yes, if you look that up on a map you will find that the distance from Los Arcos to Logroño and from there to Najera is just over 60km. In two days.
Which is probably why I feel like I'm dying a very slow and painful death. So slow in fact that I'll end up not physically dying but having to live in some sort of hell on earth of feet so blistered and painful that I can hardly walk and leg muscles that won't even stop hurting when I'm lying down. And big rashes on my ankles, which still haven't gone away but have flared up again massively - so I'm not reacting to those socks after all. Maybe I'm allergic to the wool of my thick socks over my thin socks. I don't know. Whatever it is, it's painful and burns when I touch it.
Yesterday's walking was still ok, but today's was hellish. After about 10 minutes my feet hurt just as badly as they did after 30km the day before, and by the time we got here (Najera) I was one bawling, hurting mess walking in some sort of delirium and having no idea of where or why I was going. I really don't want to walk tomorrow. It hurts, I have blisters all over the place, and even after that wonderful foot and calf massage that the hospitalero (who is wonderful but only speaks Spanish) gave me upon seeing the state of my feet and my limping I can only hobble around in pain. And I'm so tired and dizzy and not feeling very great at all. I'm scared to take painkillers because then I won't be able to feel if something goes really wrong and I'm scared to walk because it hurts and every day is just a new test of how much pain you can be in and still walk. It's been a week now and nothing is getting easier, just harder every day. Worst of all, Ariel seems to have boundless energy, not a single problem with her feet or legs and not a single pain or ache or bruise anywhere. It's so not fair.
So anyway, tomorrow I shall try and hobble around town and find some new socks and then I shall probably be forced to walk another 20km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada and arrive in worse state than today and end up walking myself to death and never even finding out what I got for my HSC. Yes, I know it's overly dramatic, but it's seriously not fun right now and I have no idea why I started this whole thing in the first place, because I was obviously not aware of the pain outweighing the nice scenery. Of which I noticed just about nothing today, due to thick fog until about 12pm and after that the delirium.
Anyway, this is getting really ridiculous so I'm going to shut up now, eat some chocolate and go to sleep. Perhaps by miracle I will be able to get up and walk tomorrow.
Days 6 and 7 - Los Arcos to Najera
Thursday, December 3, 2009 by Johanna , under camino, Day 6, Day 7
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9 Responses to 'Days 6 and 7 - Los Arcos to Najera'
Dearest Jo,
something like this was to be expected and you are very strong and brave! just don't let it get to you too much. We are all sending prayers out to you and Kia is going to do some healing for you!
If you can't walk tomorrow(today) just take a day's rest. If you can't stay at the Albergue go and find yourselves a little room. I will send you the money if you are concerned about that. Listen to your inner self!
We love you!
Mum, Tom, Kia, Sonja and Lena
Comment by Mike.
Jo, it is not wise to push your body so hard when you are in such dire straights. It is time to take a rest and allow your body an opportunity to heal a bit. Also, please consider some pain medication. You are not going to do anything drastic to your health...unless you keep walking with such blisters and severe rash. Also, at your first opportunity replace your wool socks. If this is your first occasion to wear wool socks and you a severe rash has developed, you are obviously allergic.
There is a reason this is called a pilgrimage; pain is part of the process. Do not be fearful of your current condition. It will pass and you will find the strength to overcome. Listen to both your body and the Spirit. In pain our spiritual ears become more sensitive to the guidance and whispers of the Holy Spirit.
Many have gone before you and have endured similar experiences. You are not the first and you certainly are not alone.
You are in our prayers,
a fellow pilgrim,
Michael
Comment by Kiwi Nomad.
Jo,
The best thing I ever did, in hindsight, was take a day's rest to recover from some blisters. You might just need to slow down and walk less distance for a few days.
I also had some problems with a rash when I was 'training', and found that hydrocortisone cream helped.
I remember seeing some posters in some of the albergues about pilgrim health, The very top one said to 'walk at your own pace, not someone else's'. I hope you manage to find a pace that suits you and your feet.
All the best- wishing you well,
Margaret
Comment by Sil.
Dear, dear Jo! Try something different. Buy some alcohol Romero (no Mum - its not for drinking!) Rest for at least 15 minutes every 2 hours. Take off your backpack, shoes and socks and rub the alcohol on your feet and ankles. It has healing, drying and soothing properties. Tell Ariel its 'Rosemary' or nothing!
When you get to an albergue ask for a basin of warm water with salt and vinegar and soak your poor tired feet. Yes! I'm not kidding - its an old remedy that has worked for millenia! Then lie on the bed with your feet up on the wall or raised on the bunk bed bars.
Don't worry about washing clothes or eating until you have had a rest.
Your pilgrimage should not be slog-slog-slog and you have been walking much too far in the first week. If you continue like this you'll just blow.
Don't worry about your planned schedule. You can catch up when you are feeling fitter and have those long, straight, flat stretches on the Meseta.
There are hundreds of us on the forum rooting for you, wanting you to succeed and wishing you a happier experience.
Big hug dear girl!
SLOW DOWN!!!
Sil
Hey jo.
Keep going, and don't worry to much. We are all thinking of you and are very proud of you. I think you are doing great. But try to keep thinking about all the amazing and wonderful things. We had 'steps to the future' a couple of days ago. It was really great. And as one of the speakers said, "you only feel the pain if you think about the pain". So just try not to think about it too much. And remember you are not alone.
Everyone askes about you. They ask if you are engoying it. and I always say you do enjoy it because i know that deep down it is true.
"but if your bubble dose burst, its time to mix up some more soap." (funny little quote from L.gray)
bye bye jo, stay strong.
Sonja
Lovely Jo,
It sounds like the advice is pouring in for you and I do hope you follow whichever you believe sounds right for you. Perhaps a rest is a good idea, and I don't think it will hurt at any rate. You can walk further when you are stronger! :D Please take care of yourself so you can enjoy the journey properly.
Much Love,
-Ish
Go Jo go - you sound a wonderful girl and if I was your Mum I would be so proud! Everybody is very right about slowing down and looking after yourself. My tip for keeping the spirits and energy up is eating little and often. My husband notices when I flag on hills (we cycle our pilgrimages)and calls a halt for a chocolate and or banana stop. It never fails to cheer me up. I read a book where a really experienced traveller used her watch and the promise of a square of chocolate every hour to keep her going in a cold head wind. So, stock up on all the snacks you like and keep eating!!
God bless, you're a star! (and love to Ariel)
Bridget
Dear Jo, I'm a doctor. It is quite possible that there is an infection in the soft tissue and skin of your feet and legs. When you get to the next village/town go to the Farmacia, the chemist shop. In Spain the pharmacists are excellent at giving advice and helping people. There are antibiotic creams available that the pharmacist can sell you without a doctor's prescription.
Listen carefully to Sil's advice. She knows all about it.
Never forget that there are many of us following you, thinking of you and will be there when you need help. Hold on. Hold out and Hold tight! You will reach your goal.
God Bless You!
Christine
Dear Jo,
my first week on the Camino de Levante (in September and October) was tough. If I could have come home without anyone noticing, I would have. But it got better - looking back on it now, it is the best thing I have done. Take it easy and stick with it if you can. Have rest days. Don't be afraid to get the bus or train or taxi if you need. Can you afford a night in a hostal or hotel to get pampered? What is there you enjoy and which helps you at the moment? (in the tough early days for me it was the kindness of people on the Camino and at home - it was fantastic to realise that I was in such a web of love). Can you laugh through the pain at all? My blisters all had names, which somehow made it better. I found that a €7 or €8 Menu del Dia in a restaurant was often enough for most of a day.
You're in prayers,
Ultreya!
Buen Camino
Andy
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